The runout of Dremel rotary tools is fair at best. If the use of precision router bits, end mills, or drill bits is required, it's advisable to use better quality spindles, to avoid constantly breaking the tools. The DNP611 from Dewalt is recommended by Think&Tinker as an entry level router, which is the motor only version of the DWP611. The difference between 0.024" vias drilled with a Dremel and the DNP611 (with Think&Tinker precision collet) can be seen in tab 2 on the right.
This is a short guide how to fabricate the mounting brackets. Please note, this solution is not really up to the contraptor design rules, as these parts require a little bit higher precision and are not generic — can only be used for mounting a DNP611.
|4||angle-4||fabricated (drill only 4 holes per part, at the ends of each)|
|3||angle-4||fabricated (will only be used to set up a jig)|
|2||screw 1/4 3L||http://www.mcmaster.com/#91440A554|
|4||hex nut 1/4||http://www.mcmaster.com/#90480A029|
|4||screw 10-24 1/2L bsc||http://www.mcmaster.com/#92949A242|
|4||hex nut 10-24||http://www.mcmaster.com/#90480A011|
- Sketchup (dwp611-mount.skp)
- DXF (dwp611-mount.dxf)
- G-Code (dwp611-mount.gcode)
- CamBam (dwp611-mount.cb)
Fabrication and assembly
Before you can machine the brackets, you have to temporarily mount the router to the X-axis. Cut the top corners of the two angle-6 that form the front of the X-axis with a hacksaw, as shown in the picture. (On the picture, the router is already mounted with the brackets, I just didn't have a picture from before, showing the cutout.) Use the top hole as guide to end the cut. It doesn't have to be very accurate. We need to do this, so that the yellow top of the router would fit.